How beautiful is this!
This is the most beautiful walk we have done on our whole journey!
Is it not beautiful here?
Look how beautiful!
Beautiful, right?
Yes, I have no doubt that Jan enjoyed the last 10 days! So did I. ;)
We went on another cycling trip. This time over to the USA, where we cycled across the San Juan Islands as well as Fidalgo and Whidbey Island to Port Angeles. From there ferries leave back to Victoria on Vancouver Island. In total the trip was about 270 km long. And you cover about half as many kilometres again by ferry in between.
For me there is always something fascinating about being near a national border and being able to travel to another country without a long journey. The mere sight of the road sign pointing you not to another town but to another country. Somehow it always makes me suspect that a few kilometres on everything will look completely different. Like crossing the French border just past Karlsruhe, where every street is decorated with colourfully filled window boxes. For Canada that neighbour is of course the USA, and from Vancouver Island the land of unlimited opportunity is only a short ferry ride away.
Entering the USA went astonishingly quickly: our passport photos were checked against us only roughly, and we were in! No fingerprint, no eye scan, no interrogation - and above all no two-hour queues…
The San Juan Islands, the smallest county in the US state of Washington, consist of 172 islands, rocks and reefs - at high tide. At low tide that number rises to 743.
First we crossed to San Juan Island, arriving at half past seven in the evening in the harbour town of Friday Harbor. From there it is another 16 km to the campsite at the other end of the island. At first we were tempted to check into the hostel in Friday Harbor, but 100 US dollars persuaded us to get back on the pedals after all.
We arrived at the campsite in the last of the sunlight, picturesquely set by the sea. Luckily for us there are a few small extra camping areas for anybody arriving under their own steam: so-called hiker/biker campgrounds. These were first class, even closer to the sea than the reservable pitches. And our camping neighbour told us that some campers had seen orcas off the coast that morning!
The next morning I woke early. The first rays of sun were already falling on our tent. I closed my eyes again and dozed, enjoying the warmth on my face. Then it dawned on me… there was something… right, the orcas! I peered out of the tent and saw the gathering of campers on the shore. Some of them were pointing out to sea with their arms. Aaaah!
I quickly grabbed my camera and sprinted over to them. I saw: nothing. Wait and see. Sadly no whale came to the surface again. But happily that was not my only chance. The next morning I would be sitting on the shore by seven. And nothing would escape me!
After that small disappointment we got onto our bikes for a tour of the island. First stop was Lime Kiln Point State Park - the best place on the island for watching orcas. But none leapt into view there either.
We carried on following the road along the sea when Jan spotted a bald eagle in a tree. We had already seen a few during our time on Vancouver Island, but they were mostly flying high above our heads. This one was well hidden behind a few branches, but quite close to us!
Past the island’s famous lavender farm we cycled to Friday Harbor, where the island’s culinary crème de la crème is gathered. A burger and a cheesecake later we were fortified, but our legs were also rather sluggish from the calorie bombs. Just as well there is a bike-friendly island bus!
We took the island bus for the second half of our loop of the island as far as the island alpaca farm. Yes, San Juan has not only an island lavender farm and an island alpaca farm, but also an island winery (which is for sale, incidentally), an island cheese dairy and even an island fair - the last of these only on a few days a year, admittedly.
On the way back to our campground in San Juan County Park we also discovered this wonderful art collection at the roadside!
The next day we said a heavy-hearted goodbye to our premium campsite and travelled on to the next of the San Juan Islands: Orcas Island. Once again it meant cycling from the ferry terminal to the other end of the island to make camp for the night. In this case 25 km.
The campsite in Moran State Park has two clear advantages: it sits by a lake and, for the less hardened, even has showers. Because ‘showering’ in the sea as on San Juan Island really does take an immense effort of will! So cold!!!
Moran State Park also has a separate hiker/biker campsite. Unlike on San Juan, though, not in a premium location but a kilometre from the lake. Uphill, needless to say.
On Orcas Island, climbing Mount Constitution, the second highest island mountain in the USA, is a must. At a modest 730 metres of elevation gain it is more than doable. When we woke in the morning, though, the sky was completely dressed in cloud. We quickly abandoned the plan to walk up Mount Constitution that day. After turning over on our sleeping mats another three times, we went to the island centre Eastsound instead. By bus.
The following night we barely slept a wink, not least because a herd of deer around our tent was contentedly tearing up grass and munching, tearing and munching, tearing and munching… Sweet in a way and pure nature and all that, but hardly the best preparation for the challenging walk to Mount Constitution ahead of us. At least if you believe the Moran State Park brochure.
When we spotted an owl in a tree next to our tent, though, all tiredness was instantly forgotten! All the more so when it swooped down to grab a mouse and flew off with its feast. Hm, nature is pretty cool after all.
There are three ways to reach the summit of Mount Constitution:
you walk the roughly 10 km loop,
you grind your way up by bike and enjoy the headwind on the descent - or
you simply get into a car.
Even though the last option is obviously out for us, thanks to it there is an ice cream van at the summit. Exactly the right motivation if you go for option 1 or 2.
Since our attempt to climb Mount Tuam on Salt Spring Island by bike failed mercilessly, we chose the walking option. According to the park brochure the walk has the highest difficulty rating and involves a steep climb. It really is funny how wildly the difficulty of this undertaking is exaggerated.
The route first ran along the lovely Mountain Lake and then through coniferous forest. Who else loves the smell of sun-warmed spruce needles?
The view from the summit over the other islands of the Salish Sea was definitely worth every metre!
By chance we had taken the loop against the recommended direction, which turned out to be by far the lovelier option: as we stepped onto the summit, the wonderful view of the Salish Sea unexpectedly opened out in front of us. On the way back that view stayed with us for some time and we could take our leave of it slowly. Walking the route the other way round, by the time you reach the summit you have really seen it all already…
Oh, and according to Jan that was the loveliest walking path and the loveliest view we have enjoyed in the past ten months, all told.
After a brief “shower” in Mountain Lake we returned hungry to our tent. Sadly our supplies had rapidly dwindled: two packets of ramen noodles, a mango and a quarter bag of crisps were all that was left. Not exactly what the stomach demands after a walk… And anyway: can two people survive a night on that?
The next day we moved on and took the ferry to Anacortes on the Fidalgo peninsula. After five nights in the tent with bouts of cold and limbs falling asleep every hour, we decided on a night in a motel in Anacortes. As we checked in, the good news: we are getting an upgrade to the new bed & breakfast. They were holding it back especially for those guests who look particularly well groomed. Their words: clean people. Interesting… I would rather not know what sort of clientele otherwise turns up there, if two sweat-soaked figures on bikes pass as well groomed… Admittedly, the motel really did look far from inviting…
The bed & breakfast turned out to be bed without breakfast, but was otherwise heaven on earth. A bed really is a fine thing. And a hot shower that does not cut out after three minutes when the shower token runs out. And a soft towel - one each for both of us, no less.
We did not want to leave our home for the night for a single precious minute. We did make a short trip to the diner, but then went straight back to our room. And the timing could not have been better: it was Sunday, we had a big television and HBO… - and almost two thirds of the total distance of our cycle trip still lay ahead of us.