Valladolid, with its colonial-town charm, was likeable to me at first sight. We had really only taken up quarters here because the town is the perfect base for visiting the largest Maya ruins in Mexico, Chichén Itzá. All the more pleased was I that our AirBnB host had so many tips to hand that it would have been a sin to leave again after two nights.
Chichén Itzá sadly confirmed what I had been sensing all along: we could safely have skipped it. Do not get me wrong: the ruins are imposing and certainly of great archaeological value. And many visitors are surely better able to appreciate that than I am. I hope so, at least, given how many people stream there every day.
But somehow the ruins did nothing for me. Looking at something only in passing - that stirs nothing in me at all. It is certainly also down to the fact that a trip to Chichén Itzá was recommended to us on every single day in Mexico. I had the feeling I had to have seen it. It was more a sense of duty than my own wish. It also seems to be more about buying souvenirs… I have never seen so many traders in one spot in my life!
If there is one thing I cannot do, it is haggle. But watching how naively some people let themselves be fleeced here… almost an argument for Chichén Itzá in itself.
The day did bring something good after all, though. In the evening we went to a pretty coffee shop whose owner told us about a bike trip to two little-known cenotes that they offer. Not entirely as intended, we happily took that as inspiration for the following day.
The next day started perfectly in a Mexican café with a delicious breakfast and plenty of fresh fruit (which you cannot see in the picture).
We had borrowed two bikes from our AirBnB host and off we went out of town on our 30 km ride. Does not sound far, but in over 30 degrees it is entirely sufficient!
The funny thing is that here in Mexico I immediately perceive going on a bike trip under our own steam as a small adventure. And yet it is the most everyday thing in the world. There was even a cycle path the whole way!
First we headed for the underground Cenote K’om Ha in the small village of Tekom. The village genuinely does not seem to care whether the cenote is discovered by tourists, since there is not even a sign at the entrance. And because it is underground, you simply ride straight past it. And yet a lovely underground access to the cenote was built only ten years ago…
What makes it special is that there is a hole in the cave roof through which the sun shines onto the cenote at midday. Very magical!
We rode on through the small village of Chichimilá, where evidently not many tourists find their way (although I have seen it advertised in a brochure as a must-do for traditional Maya life). The children at least took great delight in two gringos cycling through their village.
To finish we visited Cenote Xla’Kaj. The cenote, including the steps built into the limestone, is actually beautiful, only sadly a little neglected… We swam a few lengths all the same; it did not really invite you to linger, though (unlike the cenotes near Tulum - those were also 6 times as expensive).
We were undecided for a long time about whether, after El Rey, Tulum, Cobá and Chichén Itzá, we should look at yet another Maya ruin. The ruins of Ek Balam lie more or less on Valladolid’s doorstep and are supposed to be little frequented. They also come with a fairly hefty price, though, and we are not exactly history or architecture freaks who have to have seen every ruin in Mexico… Besides, a trip like that always means ‘getting up early’…
But then we decided to give Ek Balam a chance after all and took the colectivo there on our last day in Valladolid.
When we arrived there were roughly two cars in the car park. Hooray! In fact only a single couple was on the site ahead of us! More visitors did arrive gradually, but on the whole a really wonderful, relaxed atmosphere.
What makes it special is that you are allowed to climb all the ruins, which makes the visit far more exciting than when everything is cordoned off and you can only look up from below (as is the case at El Rey, Tulum and Chichén Itzá).
A 1.5 km walk from the archaeological site lies Cenote X’canché. It was just about the loveliest cenote we have visited so far: a large pool lying deep in a limestone cave, filled with clear, sun-warmed water and inhabited by little fish. The long tree roots hanging from the walls into the water make the picture perfect.
I wish I were a bit more accomplished when it comes to dives and rope swings (you know what I mean)… my attempts always end rather miserably. Luckily there are usually not many spectators.
Before taking the bus to Mérida the following day, we visited la Casa de los Venados in the morning - the largest private collection of Mexican folk and modern art.
The collection of the American couple John and Dorianne Venator comprises 3000 pieces and is housed entirely in their home, a restored town hacienda in the middle of Valladolid. All in all very interesting to see and to stroll through their four walls (alright, a few more…). Above all because the collection has no museum character. Nothing is stowed behind glass or roped off, you may photograph everything and sit on anything (that is meant for sitting on).
Next destination: Mérida